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Singapore offers a perfect place to make a winter escape
Its warm weather, sea breeze and fresh air make Singapore an ideal getaway for mainlanders fleeing the cold
The beauty of Singapore is that one can see all the country has to offer during a visit that is short and sweet. Its warm weather, sea breeze and fresh air easily make Singapore an ideal getaway for mainlanders, especially in winter, when many Chinese cities struggle with the cold or even smog.
On a recent three-day trip to Singapore, we go on a shopping spree and binge on food that is cheap and cheerful. We see glistening skyscrapers sitting next to each other along the riverside, while basking in the shade of lush plants in the botanic garden.
We sip coffee at a local cafe and enjoy the night life in a local bar.
Indeed, all these elements are rolled into this compact yet neat land that accounts for less than 5 percent of China's capital Beijing, the place we come from.
As a food aficionado, my first highlight comes when I enter the Tiong Bahru Market, whose second floor is a food court, which is ringed with assorted independent food stalls.
Singapore offers a perfect place to make a winter escape
"There are many places like this, but this one offers authentic local cuisine," says Candy Yat, our tour guide.
"Also, the food here is cheaper than at some of its counterparts," says Yat.
The place is filled with restaurants, which offer dishes like oyster omelet, steamed rice cakes topped with preserved radish, braised noodles, and assorted dim sum stuffed with sticky rice or green beans.
Most of the dishes we order are priced between $1-3.
The Cheng Tng (clear soup) is one thing you must try. Don't be fooled by the somewhat tedious dark brown look of the soupy dessert, as all the treats are at the bottom. The soup is sweet but not cloying.
A melting pot
After my belly is full I spend the rest of the afternoon walking around the Tiong Bahru neighborhood, which is said to be the oldest public housing estate in the country.
The neighborhood, however, is now one of the hippest places in Singapore, where the quaint shophouses have become hot spots for the young, Yat tells us.
For those who have an eye for history and culture, the neighborhood also has some landmarks from the past, including the Qitiangong Temple which is almost a century old.
What I find interesting is that the name Tiong Bahru actually means new cemetery, because it used to be a burial ground. It is hard to imagine the dramatic changes, with old and new buildings standing next to each other.
For one born and bred in Southeast China's Fujian province, I feel a sense of familiarity when I visit the Katong and Joo Chiat areas, where one can see traces of the charming Peranakan culture.
The area used to be home to the Straits Chinese community, which came into being when early Chinese immigrants married local Malay women, says Yat.
The area, only a 10-minute drive from downtown, is full of colorful two-story shophouses and terrace houses with facades featuring intricate motifs and ceramic tiles.
The neighborhood now harbors popular foodie destinations, including modern cafes that sit next to old-fashioned coffee shops selling laksa, dumplings and other delicacies.
We drop by the Guan Hoe Soon Restaurant, which has been serving authentic Peranakan cuisine in the Joo Chiat area since 1953.
The diner has an idyllic atmosphere and serves traditional cuisines that are considered too troublesome to cook.
Ayam buah keluak is a dish one must try. It features the big black seed of the buah keluak fruit and chunks of chicken stewed together.
Its delightful herbal taste complements the chicken and the bean itself is chopped up and mixed with minced meat, offering an springy texture.
It takes a lot of work to prepare this simple-looking but tasty dish.
"The black bean is poisonous and is used to kill rats in some countries," says a chef with the restaurant.
"So, we need to first cover the beans with volcanic ash, then wash and steam the beans until their toxicity is gone, and mix the flesh with meat and put the mixture back into the bean shell."
The ngoh hiang (deep fried parcels of pork), nonya chap chye (mixed vegetables) and otak otak (fish meat tofu) which we order all offer a pleasant and exotic flavor and give you a better understanding of the local cuisine.
Peranakan culture
If you dining experience leaves you craving for more, be sure to drop by Kim Choo Kueh Chang, which is also a time-honored food shop.
The shop's rice dumplings have a history going back to 1945. The pyramid-shaped dumplings are wrapped in bamboo leaves and are known for their savory fillings, including pork, chicken and chill prawn.
The stuffing is quite generous and I find big chunks of pork inside. Each dumpling is priced at around $2-3.
Traditional outfits like kebayas and sarongs, beaded slippers and other accessories, as well as exquisite Peranakan ware and handicrafts such as tea cups and pots can also be found in the area.
"Most of them are handmade," says Yat.
The common patterns on the items are phoenix and peony, which symbolize wealth and good fortune and are considered auspicious in Peranakan culture.
The Botanic Gardens
I choose the Botanic Gardens to be my last stop in the country, since it is Singapore's first UNESCO Heritage Site.
It's like being in a lush green world and all the modern brick-and-mortar buildings suddenly disappear.
The sun sparkles on the oily green leaves and exotic blossoms.
Many visit the gardens to jog or dine, I'm told.
The garden was established in 1859 by the Agri-Horticultural Society. It's a 60-acre plot that was transformed from a disused plantation.
Botanical and horticultural research are carried out here. Plants are grown in designated areas, and some toxic ones are fenced in to keep visitors at a safe distance.
The national orchid garden is believed to be the world's largest, with more than 600 species and hybrids.
The Heritage Museum is another site in the Gardens that one should not miss. It was built in 1921 and covers an area of 240 square meters. The museum features interactive and multimedia exhibits and panels that detail the Gardens' rich heritage.
For those with children, the Jacob Ballas Children's garden mixes fun with education. Children can play in the open air and pick up knowledge on plant life.
All exhaustion can be relieved at a host of diners and cafes tucked away in the Gardens.
Indeed, the convenient visa (four days after application through a travel agency) and cheap flights (1,800 yuan, $262 for round trip if your timing is right) make the City in the Garden an attractive option compared with domestic destinations for those who want to avoid the chill and the smog.
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